Discover the best of what the Pacific and Atlantic oceans have to offer. Toro's selection of bluefin tuna dishes transcends borders and welcomes everyone for a price.
Toro is a fictional restaurant envisioned by curators of APEX. It is named after one of the most prized parts of the bluefin tuna – otoro – which is famous for its high fat content and rich marbling (Munchies, 2015). Its dinner menu appropriately features dishes that highlight the popularity of bluefin tuna.
From Japanese sashimi to Italian crudo, the dishes on the menu are sourced from a variety of cultures. The cultural significance of a number of such food items is discussed below.
Pet food.
Catering to the beloved canine and feline companions of customers, Toro serves processed bluefin tuna in pet-friendly service containers as an ode to the dish's humble beginnings. In the early 20th century, bluefin tuna was hardly a popular commodity. In the USA, it was common for pounds of bluefin tuna to be ground up and sold for pennies (Narula, 2014). As people often complained about its strong smell and bloody appearance, most Americans opted to use bluefin tuna as pet feed for cats or dogs given its low price.
Fermented Tuna.
In the past, Japanese citizens would completely avoid bluefin tuna, calling it neko-matagi, which translates to “fish that even a cat would disdain” (Bland, 2013). During Japan’s feudal era, eating bluefin tuna was viewed as an act of desperation. The distaste for bluefin tuna was so strong that only people with little to no money would resort to buying it. And even if they did, these people would bury and ferment the tuna to remove the metallic taste (Bland, 2013).
Sushi.
As the popularity of soy sauce grew in 18th century Japan, street vendors began to experiment how they could elevate their food stock. One such method involved marinating bluefin tuna in a mixture of soy sauce and rice wine. Since refrigeration technology was unavailable at the time, this acted as an early strategy for food preservation as the salt and sugar content of these ingredients helped keep the food fresh and flavorful (Otoh, 2016).
Poke.
Early forms of poke were made using raw reef fish seasoned with sea salt as the main preservative (Hawaii Ocean Project, 2017). However, as trade increased between Hawaii, Eastern Asia, and the Global West, poke recipes began to incorporate the use of bartered elements such as soy sauce, sesame oil, and tuna (Taketa, n.d.). Today, poke has become famous for its bright red hue – lent by the use of tuna – and can be found all across the Hawaiian islands.
Crudo.
Directly translating to “raw,” crudo is a traditional method to prepare uncooked food in the coastal fishing towns of Italy (Culinary Lore, 2016). As most of the residents of these towns were fishermen, this allowed the townsfolk to prepare fresh food with minimal costs using the catch of their day like southern bluefin tuna. In contrast with sushi, crudo highlights the quality and harmony of simple ingredients like olive oil, citrus, and capers.
Despite its humble beginnings as cat food, the appreciation for bluefin tuna has grown considerably in the past century. Today, bluefin tuna is used in a variety of dishes all across the world and has become a symbol of status, rather than desperation. As the global demand for the fish rises, the overall population of the species is at risk of overfishing and decline. And while some groups are making efforts to create sustainable alternatives to wild-caught seafood, the market is still growing at an alarming rate, necessitating action from all levels.
Explore the menu in more detail by downloading it below.
Menu and writing created by Nico Carpo.
References
Bland, A. (2013, September 11). From Cat Food to Sushi Counter: The Strange Rise of the Bluefin Tuna. Smithsonian Magazine. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/from-cat-food-to-sushi-counter-the-strange-rise-of-the-bluefin-tuna-5980010/
Culinary Lore. (2016, May 9). What is a Crudo?. https://culinarylore.com/dishes:what-is-a-crudo/
Hawaii Ocean Project. (2017, September 11). A Brief History of Poke in Hawaii. https://hawaiioceanproject.com/a-brief-history-of-poke-in-hawaii/
Munchies. (2015, May 18). Appetite for Destruction: Eating Bluefin Tuna Into Extinction [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hivvTo6VSS8
Narula, S. K. (2014, January 5). Sushinomics: How Bluefin Tuna Became a Million-Dollar Fish. The Atlantic. https://www.theatlantic.com/international/archive/2014/01/sushinomics-how-bluefin-tuna-became-a-million-dollar-fish/282826/
Otoh, M. (2016, June 17). Once considered low class, how did tuna get so valuable?. The Japan Times. https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2016/06/17/food/considered-low-class-tuna-get-valuable/
Taketa, M. (n.d.). What is poke and where did it come from?. Hawaiian Airlines. https://www.hawaiianairlines.com/hawaii-stories/food-and-entertainment/origins-of-poke
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